Japan - Beautiful Design

I’m on a very tight budget while in Japan - which is challenging because there are some amazing and wondrous things I’d like to bring back with me. For example, I went into a department store in Kyoto where they had thousands upon thousands of cases for iPhones. Some of them were made to look like Japanese wood cut art, others like folded paper envelopes, and others were clear with little characters that ‘interact’ with the apple on the back - like a worm taking a bite or the apple acting as the eye for some silly cartoon character. 

Then there are the shops full of Tenugui, a traditional Japanese cloth dating back to the 8th century. 
 

The designs are extremely diverse. Some of unbelievably elegant whilst others are bold and bright. 

And the pottery! I’ve been snapping shots of the pottery every chance I get. Stunning bowls, cups and plates covered in cherry blossoms, bold coi or intricate dragons. 

Needless to say, I’m getting flooded with ideas. So many patterns I can design and play with. So many different materials they can be applied to. So many different functions. 

I will be expanding on the few experimental designs I’ve already done for my shop. I’m definitely letting Japanese art influence my work from here on in. 

Japan - Miyajima

After the intensity of Hiroshima it was helpful to see something as serene and beautiful as the Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima. Although ‘on’ Miyajima isn’t quite right as the shrine is built out in the ocean. 

Shintoism and Buddhism are the two major religions in Japan and shrines dot the country side and cities in abundance. But some, like the Itsukushima Shrine at Miyajima, are more breathtaking than others. 

The day we arrived at Miyajima began in Kyoto. There was a parade from the Imperial Palace where people in traditional dress marched through the centre of the city. The outfits and flowers were wonderful and it was stunning to see the old agains the backdrop of such a vibrant city. 

From there we went to Hiroshima and the peace park, which was an extremely emotional experience and one that has only reinforced the significance of the destruction war causes and the absolute waste that it is. 

Arriving in Miyajima to find that the view from the hotel looked out at the shrine was yet another moving experience. The tide was low so we caught the ferry across right away (For free thanks to the JR pass) and walked down to touch the barnacle covered arch. As in Nara, wild deer wandered the streets, coming up to people to see if they had treats. The rolling hills, the wildlife and the shops all reminded me of Banff, if Banff were by the sea and slightly tropical. 

But the shrine was nothing like anything I’ve ever seen in North America or Europe. A stunning monument jutting out of the sand, the sun setting behind it only adding to the serenity of the place. 

I think the thing I love the best about Japanese shrines is the simplicity of the design. Elegant lines with minimal adornment, just enough to make a statement without becoming garish. Like so many things in Japan, stated boldly and beautifully. 

Japan - Hiroshima

Paper crane art in the Hiroshima Peace Park

I have a thousand paper cranes. My aunt made them for me over a period of two years, if I remember correctly, and gave them to me as a gift. They are probably the single most beautiful gift I’ve ever been given when you consider the time they took to make. They hang from multiple strands and at the moment they are tucked away in my parent’s house in Canada, although they hung in pride of place in my living room when I still lived there. 

The story of the thousand paper cranes is one I imagine most Canadian school children are familiar with. When we learned about World War II in elementary they told the true story of a girl with cancer and her thousand paper cranes as a way to soften the historic significance of the first atomic bomb to be used against humankind by humankind. 

Standing by the A-Bomb Dome in Hiroshima was a moving experience that I don’t think I can do justice to by writing about. The display of paper cranes and the memorial of a girl, standing with a folded crane in her hands, made me appreciate all the more the importance of remembering that we are all connected. The cranes were beautiful, as beautiful as my thousand. 

The A-Bomb Dome - the building directly beneath the
bomb when it detonated. 

I rang the peace bell and listened to it reverberate, hoping the intention behind my action was felt everywhere and that maybe we could learn to let go of ‘us and them’ and see how dualism only harms us. 

The Peace Bell

Japan - Komokuten

Nara used to be the capital of Japan, before Kyoto and now, Tokyo. This was because the new emperor would pick where he wanted the capital to be each time.

As a capital Nara was made a hub of Buddhist temples, including the largest of these in which the 'Big Buddha' stands. The Buddha is indeed, very big, and for me it was quite an incredible experience. The architecture of the building was something to behold. The fine detail of the Buddha, given the scale, was quite impressive. My favourite bit was the fine detailed drawings on the metal petals of the lotus flower on which the Buddha sat.

On either side were two more massive sculptures, this time out of stone. Their fearsome faces indicated that they were deities or protectors of some sort - especially as they both appeared to be standing on top of slain dragons. But it was the one on the left, called Koumokuten, that really struck me. This guy, who was clearly a force to be reckoned with AKA Super badass, was holding a scroll in one hand and a brush in the other.

The pen is mightier than the sword. 

Upon arriving in Kyoto and gaining access to the interwebs once more I looked him up and have come to learn that he is one of four deities that protect the four realms of the Buddha. His name means 'wide eyed' or 'expansive vision' and he encourages aspirations for enlightenment. I think it's pretty nifty that this involves a pen and a scroll - very telling.

Japan Adaptation

I love visiting new countries because I learn best by doing and the experience of being immersed in a different culture allows my brain to sponge up ideas and information like nothing else. 

There are many similarities between the UK and Japan, specifically Tokyo and London, as they are both large cities with dense populations. But it’s the differences that have struck me. 

The first noticeable difference, besides the obvious, were the rules around the escalators. Both countries drive on the left and in London the rule is, 'Stand on the right, walk on the left', on all escalators everywhere - excluding the first few you encounter coming off a flight in Heathrow because tourists don’t know this rule. 

In Tokyo it’s stand on the left, walk on the right and this is indicated with little footprints painted onto the left side of the escalators. Interestingly enough, even in the tourist heavy areas, this rule is very well followed. I put this down to the obvious signage - covered in jolly and charming characters whose facial expressions and body language are impossible to mis construe, regardless of what language you speak. 

Priority seating signs on the train

These charming characters pepper signs for everything and I find myself taking photos of them in an almost obsessive way. Such as the signs for the ‘priority’ seats, where the pregnant woman really doesn’t look very comfortable given the ‘action’ lines protruding from her very round belly. 

There is also a very different etiquette for phone usage on trains. Quite simply, you don’t. It doesn’t matter if you have a signal, you refrain from talking on your phone. And you certainly don’t even switch it on if you’re near the priority seating. 

This was emphasised when my cousin took a call from her sister. We had boarded the train and she remained on the platform to finish the conversation. 

The respect and organisation of the culture is also seen in the queuing to board trains. I know England likes to think of themselves as the originators of the queue and lords of line ups, but they have nothing on the Japanese. They have stickers on all their train platforms which indicate which door will open where for different lengths of trains that come into a platform. People line up in a very orderly fashion and I think the idea of queue jumping would be entirely foreign to them. 

As it is I’m adapting well because the discipline is not cold or rigid but from a place of respect. People are friendly, polite, and extremely helpful. Talking to a stranger doesn’t elicit a scowl or questioning look but rather a beaming smile and friendly nodding. It is a courteous culture - so much so that it appears locking your bicycle up isn't done because the idea of nicking someone's bike is so unfathomable. 

I know I said as much in my last entry but I really do wish that I could speak Japanese - or at least enough to sort our directions and be able to read menus. As it is I've been very fortunate to be able to take this trip with my step-grandma, a native of the country and a brilliant translator and tour guide. 

Five storey Pagoda in Nara - my location for day 3

First post from Japan!

I've finally found internet! 

Trees around the Imperial Palace in Tokyo

I had intended to be writing blog entries almost daily during my Japan adventure. Actually, I’ll clarify - I intended to be publishing blog entries almost daily. Since arriving in Japan I have actually written about four blog entires, including what will be a guest entry for the Work From Home Wisdom on adapting to work in another country. Well, it’s proven more difficult than I thought it would be.

Wifi is not nearly so widely available in Tokyo as you would think. Tokyo really does have a reputation for being at the cutting edge of technology so the fact that Wifi is seen as a bit of an anomaly locally took me by surprise. Of course my first two days in Japan have been spent in residence at small ‘seaside’ town called Torami. 

This remote and restful location has helped immensely with jet lag so that today, as I write this (hopefully) first proper blog entry to be published, I am feeling refreshed and even quite energised. 

My Bento box - everything was delicious

I am on a train - a bullet train - from Tokyo to Kyoto. It’s a bright, sunny day, the light glinting off of the incredible glazed tiles of the Japanese houses, rolling green mountains in the distance. Mt. Fuji will soon be on the horizon and I’m contentedly full from my Bento box. 

I’m quite in love with this country. I adore the food - but I would. I’m loving the architecture as well. And the people are wonderful. Extremely courteous and very willing to help. I’m also managing to pick up some Japanese, a point of which I am rather proud but also a bit frustrated. I wish I could be instantly fluent for this is a place I could see myself returning to again and again.

Up, up and away!

I've been in the thick of it this week, between trips to opposing end of the planet and all. So I don't have a blog for you today. Not a proper one like I usually publish on a Thursday, because I'm actually in an airport right now. And then I'm going to muck you about because for the next fifteen days I'm going to be exploring and discovering Japan and I'll no doubt find loads of inspiration for blog entries.

Watch this space.